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9/23/2023

Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) - Does It Actually Help With The  Most-Googled Hair Concerns?

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It’s official: Apple cider vinegar (ACV) is no longer a quaint ‘old wives remedy’ — It has surged in popularity, with the hashtag #applecidervinegar pulling in 210M views on TikTok in the past 2 months and 988M views overall.

Many videos show users experimenting with using apple cider vinegar in their beauty routines, particularly focusing on how it can help to promote healthy hair.

Experts at All Things Hair turned to Google data to find out the biggest hair concerns people are seeking to treat with apple cider vinegar and whether or not it does actually help to resolve them.

Dandruff: 35,640 Google searches

The greatest number of searches by far were asking if apple cider vinegar can help with dandruff. Milena Prinzi, hair expert at All Things Hair, sheds light on exactly how this fermented apple juice combats dandruff and answers Google users' questions:

What causes dandruff and why is ACV a good treatment?
"Dandruff happens when a yeast-like fungus called Malassezia gets out of control by feeding on oils on the scalp," Prinzi explains. "The excess of fungus unbalances the normal pH levels on the scalp and disrupts the cell regeneration process. As a result, white flakes, odor and itchiness appear on the scalp. Apple cider vinegar has natural antimicrobial and antioxidant properties and acetic acid, which helps regulate the scalp's pH levels and target dandruff."

Which ACV is best for dandruff?
"Many versions of ACV vinegar are available, but to tackle dandruff, you want to choose one with the highest concentration possible of acetic acid. Why? This acid will target the unprecedented production of Malassezia, the yeast-like fungus responsible for dandruff," Pinzi shares. "Furthermore, acetic acid will keep the scalp's pH levels in check to eliminate flakiness and itchiness. You also want to choose a version of the vinegar that is raw, unfiltered and unpasteurized, and if you can see the good bacteria floating on the bottom of the bottle, even better." 

How do you treat dandruff with ACV?

"I'm a big fan of ACV as a scalp treatment and have used it for years. If your scalp can handle it straight up to target problematic areas, go for it. I usually dip a cotton ball and gently rub it on the scalp. However, this vinegar has a strong scent, so you should only apply it before washing your hair; 30 minutes to an hour before hitting the shower," Pinzi adds. "For my rinse, I purchase a spray bottle and mix 2 to 3 tablespoons of the vinegar in 8 to 10 ounces of water. Of course, you can adjust these measurements as you see fit and as your scalp's tolerance for the vinegar increases."

Hair Growth: 16,920 searches 

Prinzi is not so convinced on the efficacy of ACV for this condition, saying: "This might be an unpopular opinion, but as far as I know, apple cider vinegar does not help with hair growth. However, apple cider vinegar is one of nature's greatest alkaline and aids the body to balance our pH levels, which means it helps eliminate free radicals in the organism."

Prinzi continues adding,  "Due to these redeeming qualities, apple cider vinegar is a fantastic scalp cleanser. People have used apple cider rinse to soothe scalp itchiness, remove product buildup, control the overproduction of Malassezia, the fungus responsible for dandruff, and eliminate scalp odor produced by bacteria developed by scalp dermatitis. A healthy scalp is necessary for hair growth, but the regular use of apple cider vinegar doesn't necessarily mean you'll grow long strands. Since hair is mostly protein, eating a high-protein diet might aid hair growth." 

Hair Loss: 4,800 searches 

Prinzi does not think ACV would make much difference: "As far as I know, there's no scientific proof that apple cider vinegar prevents hair loss or stimulates hair growth. Apple cider vinegar is best known for its antibacterial properties, which can be applied to treat scalp conditions such as dandruff and dermatitis." 

Greasy/Oily Hair: 4,320 searches 

Prinzi confirms that ACV could help with this condition: "There might be a precedent to support this claim due to apple cider vinegar’s natural cleansing properties. If used as a rinse or wash, ACV removes product buildup on the scalp. Since this vinegar is rich in antioxidants and balances the pH, it might control the overproduction of oil on the scalp and, therefore, less oily hair." 

Dry Hair: 960 searches

Prinzi does not think ACV is the right treatment for dryness: "I don’t see how apple cider vinegar can hydrate dry hair because this vinegar has no moisturizing ingredients. Dry hair often needs the help of oils and vitamins to smooth its coarse texture and bring out the shine. If anything, I think apple cider vinegar will make dry hair drier." 


For more hair advice visit: https://www.allthingshair.com/en-us/ ​
from BeautyLaunchPad

9/21/2023

Natural ingredients in hair care: myth and reality

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Only natural ingredients ensure healthy and beautiful hair? 
​
Hairdresser and chemist Michael Ahlmeyer investigates the statement.
In this day and age, more and more people are looking for natural alternatives in all areas of their lives - including hair care. But while some claim that natural ingredients are the best choice for healthy and beautiful hair, others remain skeptical and regard this as a mere myth.

In this article, we're going to take a closer look at natural ingredients in hair care and whether they're really as effective as they say they are.

What does science say?

Natural ingredients such as aloe vera, coconut oil, plant extracts or jojoba oil have a firm place in numerous hair care products. Proponents of these ingredients say they can moisturize hair, strengthen it, add shine, and even promote hair growth.

But what do the scientific facts say about this? It is important to note that not all natural ingredients are created equal. Some studies have shown that certain natural ingredients may actually have beneficial properties for hair. Aloe vera, for example, has moisturizing properties and can help reduce dryness and flaking.Jojoba oil helps regulate sebum production and keep the scalp healthy.

The situation is different with plant extracts . In most cases, these serve more to provide a suitable story for product marketing. Often these extracts are only available in homeopathic dosescontained in the product and their actual effect may be questionable. A critical examination of studies on the subject of ingredients in hair cosmetics is of great importance. It is important to review the methodology and validity of the studies, note the independence of the studies, and consider the sample size and reproducibility of the results. The context and applicability of the study results should also be considered.

Be critical

Another critical consideration concerns the use of essential oils in hair care. Natural rose oil, for example, contains over 500 different ingredients , many of which are potentially allergenic . With synthetic fragrances, on the other hand, there is the possibility of deliberately omitting many of these potential allergens and thus producing a more compatible product.

It is important that hairdressers and consumers understand the criticisms and limitations of natural ingredients in hair care. Natural cosmetics can be a good complement, but should not be seen as the sole solution. And be careful: The terms 'Clean Beauty' and 'Green Chemistry' are not proprietary and may lead to misleading marketing claims. Claims such as "Sulfate-free, Paraben-free, Silicone-free" are widespread, although in many cases they are unfair and not allowed: The
Claims Regulation clarifies that ingredients that are considered safe, such as parabens, silicones and sulfates, must not be discounted.

The focus is on the well-being of the customers

As hairdressers, we regularly subject our customers' hair to a variety of chemical and thermal treatments, such as colouring, bleaching, straightening and perming. In this context, it is important to understand that the solution to hair care challenges cannot be found exclusively in natural cosmetics. However, natural cosmetics can be a useful addition for guests in the salon who want to avoid chemical treatments or who are sensitive to certain ingredients. It is crucial that consumers remain critical and do not rely solely on advertising claims. Making an informed decision about hair care products requires looking at different sources and information.

Studies are an important aspect, however, one should not only trust individual studies, but also consider other factors such as scientific knowledge, clinical studies and consumer experiences.
​

As hairdressers, we can help our clients choose the right products and treatments according to their individual hair needs. A balanced and differentiated consideration of natural ingredients as well as a critical attitude towards marketing statements are essential. Ultimately, the focus should be on the health and well-being of the customer, and hair care product selection should be based on sound information and individual preferences.
from TopHair.de  (you may need to translate this site)
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Michael Ahlmeyer is a master hairdresser with two salons in Cologne. He develops high-quality hair cosmetics under the brand name "Michael Ahlmeyer" after using the corona pandemic for a correspondence course in chemistry in product development. 
​

More information about the products and contact at:
michaelahlmeyerpro.com

8/15/2023

Why does your hair curl in the summer? A chemist explains the science behind hair structure

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The three layers of hair
If you have curly hair, you know that every day is a new adventure. What will my hair do today? Why does it curl better on some days than others? And even those without naturally curly hair might notice their hair curling—or, let's be honest, frizzing—a bit on humid summer days.

As a person with curly hair, I'm always looking for the best way to care for and understand my hair. As a chemist, I'm interested in the science behind how my hair behaves at the molecular level. There are different hair types, from straight to curly, and they behave differently depending on their structure. But what hairs are made up of at the molecular level is the same.

Hair structure

Hair begins growing under the skin's surface, but it's what happens after it pokes through the skin that determines whether you have a good hair day or a bad one.

Each hair can have three layers—the medulla, the cortex and the cuticle. You can think of each hair like a tiny tree trunk.

The innermost, or core layer, is the medulla. This layer holds moisture, much like the pith in the center of a tree trunk. This layer is also very fragile, but only thick or coarse hairs contain this part—so those with thin or blond hair typically don't have the medulla layer in their hairs.

Next is the cortex, which makes up most of a hair and is analogous to the wood of a tree. The cortex is made up of spring-shaped protein molecules that lie in parallel rows in a cylindrical bundle. The exact shape of that bundle is determined by the hair follicle, which is a pore on the skin from where the hair grows.

How the hair grows out of the follicle influences the distribution of its proteins. So a straight follicle produces straight hair and a curved follicle produces curly hair. The less evenly distributed the squiggly proteins are, the curlier the hair. Your genetic code also plays a role in the shape of the cortex and, therefore, the shape and thickness of your hair.
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A hair’s cuticle under a microscope.
Lastly, the outermost layer of a hair is called the cuticle. The cuticle is like the bark of a tree—and it even looks like bark under a microscope.

It's the cuticle's job to protect the cortex, but the cuticle is very easily damaged. Imagine lifting or removing the bark from a tree. Doing so would leave the wood inside susceptible to moisture loss, exposure to the environment and damage.

The same is true for each hair. When the cuticle is damaged from brushing, chemicals, wind or heat, the proteins of the cortex have a much more difficult time lying smoothly together. This means they can lose moisture, gain moisture, fray like a rope—this causes split ends—and even break. All these factors can influence how your hair looks at any given moment.

Hair in the summer

So what does all of this have to do with humidity? Well, hair proteins contain many permanent chemical bonds. Only chemical treatments like perms or straightening can change these bonds. But there's another natural phenomenon that keeps the protein molecules in the cortex in line—something called hydrogen bonding.

The long, stringy protein molecules in the cortex contain tiny positive and negative charges throughout their structure. Because opposite charges attract each other, entire rows of proteins can be attracted to each other like tiny, weak magnets.

Heating or wetting your hair breaks the magnetlike attraction between these rows of proteins. So, heat and water can rearrange the proteins in your hair by breaking the hydrogen bonds that keep their structure together.

Water is one of the best molecules at hydrogen bonding. So when a molecule of water has the opportunity to hydrogen bond with something, it will.
In your hair, water can form hydrogen bonds between the rows of proteins in your hair's cortex. It is the extent to which this happens that determines your hair's fate.

When just a little water enters the hair, like it might in lower humidity conditions or when the cuticle is healthy and able to keep too much water out of the cortex, your hair may curl. When humidity is high, or the cuticle is damaged, more water enters the hair. Too much water can swell and crack the cuticle, making hair look frizzy.

Many people consider high humidity to be the problem behind frizzy hair, but styling your hair under high humidity and then entering a less humid environment can also be an issue. Water molecules leaving the hair's cortex can also lead to a change in hair behavior.

Treating summer hair

A damaged cuticle layer leaves the cortex more susceptible to water molecules creeping in or out and wreaking havoc on your hair. Anytime water molecules travel in or out, your hair's structure suffers and your hairstyle may be ruined. When the cuticle is healthy, it can protect the cortex, making your hair less susceptible to changes in the weather or environment. The bottom line is that a healthy hair cuticle helps keep proper moisture in the cortex.

Heat from styling tools is the most common culprit behind damaged cuticles, but chemical treatments, brushing, sun and wind can also cause damage. Avoiding these activities can help, but some things, such as exposure to the sun, can't be avoided.
​
You can also take care of your scalp—a clean, healthy scalp leads to healthy hair cuticles. Using moisturizing products on your hair can help maintain cuticle health as well. Oils and moisturizing treatments can even restore damaged cuticles. The good news is that by understanding your hair and treating it well, you can help prevent the undesired effects of humidity.
from PHYS.org

6/21/2023

11 REASONS IT IS TIME TO THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX WHEN IT COMES TO HAIR COLOR

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If you've been using box hair dye to color your hair, now might be time to reconsider your choice. While box hair dye can be convenient and affordable, it comes with a range of potential drawbacks that can negatively impact your hair’s health and appearance. Here, we’re sharing 11 reasons you’ll want to switch from box hair dye to professional hair dye in a salon.

1. Box dyes typically contain metallic dyes.
Many box dyes use metallic salts such as lead, copper, and silver to dye your hair, and can cause chemical reactions. While these dyes can provide a quick color fix, they can also cause serious damage to your hair. Over time, metallic dyes can build up on the hair shaft and create a dull, brassy look. Additionally, when you try to remove box dye, the metallic dyes can react with professional color, making it difficult to achieve the desired result.

2. Box color isn't a one-size-fits-all solution.
Everyone's hair is different—and box dyes aren't designed to take into account your individual hair types, textures, and colors. So, the color you achieve with a box dye may not be the same as the color you see on the box. Box dyes typically contain a limited range of colors, so you may not be able to achieve the exact shade you're looking for.

3. Going back and forth between salon color and box color is a bad idea.
If you've been using box dyes for a while and decide to switch to salon color, it's important to stick with salon color. Going back and forth between salon color and box color can cause damage to your hair and make it difficult for your colorist to achieve the desired result. Also, box dyes can contain ingredients that can react negatively with salon color—so it's best to avoid them altogether.

4. Time and money spent on color corrections can add up.
If you've had a bad experience with box dye, you know how difficult it can be to correct the color. Color corrections are time-consuming and expensive. By switching to professional hair dye in a salon, you can almost certainly eliminate the need for color corrections altogether and achieve the color you want from the start.

5. Professional hair dye is less damaging to your hair.
Professional hair dye is formulated with high-quality ingredients that are much more gentle and less damaging to your hair than box dyes. Another plus: Salon color is applied by trained professionals who know how to minimize damage and protect the health of your hair. 

6. Professional hair dye lasts longer than box dye.
Get more for your money. Salon color is designed to last longer than box dye, which means you'll need to touch up your color less frequently. This can save you time and money in the long run, as well as reduce the damage caused by frequent coloring`.

7. Salon color is customized to your hair.
When getting your hair professionally colored in a salon, your stylist will take into account your individual hair type, texture, and color to create a customized color that works for you. So, you'll get a natural, flattering color that's tailored to your needs.

8. Professional hair dye is more consistent.
Box dyes can be unpredictable. The color you get may vary from one application to the next. With salon color, you'll get more consistent results every time.

9. Professional hair dye can be used for a range of color techniques.
Want to opt for highlights, balayage, or ombre color? If you're looking to achieve a more complex color look like one of the effects above, salon color is the way to go. These techniques require specialized knowledge and training, and they can't be achieved with box dye.

10. Salon color can enhance the overall health of your hair.
Professional hair dye contains ingredients that can enhance your hair’s overall health and appearance. These ingredients can strengthen your hair, add shine, and improve its texture—leaving you with healthy strands. Kenra Color’s Balancing Complex 5 allows for improved condition and manageability of the hair.

11. Trying to save money in the short term may not always equate to savings in the long run.
While box dye may be cheaper than salon color, the long-term costs can add up. If you have to correct the color or deal with damaged hair, the costs can quickly outweigh the initial savings. By investing in a professional hair color appointment, you can avoid these costs and achieve a better overall result.

Switching from box hair dye to a professional color service in a salon is a smart choice for anyone looking for vibrant, high-quality, long-lasting hair color. By avoiding the damaging effects of metallic dyes, getting a customized color, and making the most of trained professionals’ expertise, you can achieve your desired hair color—with less damage and less hassle. You’ll also enjoy healthier, shinier hair overall.

Think outside the box.  I’ll see you at the salon.
from KenraProfessional

6/3/2023

Online searches for ‘rosemary oil’ have skyrocketed 135% over the past year

Rosemary Oil Hair Hack Spurs 331% Search Increase

​Analysis of Google search data has revealed that online searches for ‘rosemary oil’ have skyrocketed 135% over the past year in the UK due to the huge surge of interest generated through TikTok.
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A new finding by beauty and wellness marketplace Fresha analysed Google search data for searches related to the hair hack, which revealed a 135% increase over the past year and a 695% increase over the past five years just in the United Kingdom.

Searches for ‘rosemary oil’ have also gained interest across the globe, with an increase in worldwide searches of 331% over the past five years.
​
The interest in rosemary oil gained popularity on social media app TikTok after beauty and wellness influencers shared their experiences using the product while showcasing the results after around six weeks.
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The interest in rosemary oil alongside the hashtag #hairtok has racked up an astonishing number of views. The hashtag #rosemaryoil has totalled 1.3 billion views, alongside #rosemaryoilforhairgrowth reaching 212.3 million views, proving the curiosity of TikTok users in the oil.

What does rosemary oil do to your hair?

According to Fresha's research, rosemary oil stimulates and promotes hair growth, battles against dandruff, and prevents premature greying; it is also proven to add shine and a healthy glow to the hair after a more extended period of regular use.
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The beauty influencers on TikTok recommend using rosemary oil as part of your hair care routine, not to expect results after the first few uses and sticking with it as you could see incredible differences in your hair's health even after six weeks.

Searches for ‘rosemary oil for hair’ have seen a 168% increase over the past year in the United Kingdom alone, as well as an increase of 73% in the United States and 52% worldwide over the past twelve months.

The interest in tutorials has also skyrocketed on Google, with searches for ‘how to use rosemary oil in hair’ increasing 547% over the past year in the United Kingdom.

How often should you use rosemary oil in your hair?

​It is recommended if you have thinner, lighter and easily damaged hair, you should use the oil once a week as a treatment. If dandruff is what you want to battle, then use a few drops of rosemary oil alongside gentler oils such as coconut, caster or jojoba oil; it can be used up to four times a week for shorter periods of time.
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Mixing rosemary oil with lighter oils such as these will help dilute the rosemary oil's strength and work to soothe and nurture the hair while using the natural oils.

Interest in haircare has been on the rise, particularly since the hashtag #hairtok gained popularity on the app. The hashtag is commonly used by those sharing tips and tricks on styling, maintaining and looking after all hair types, allowing users to search and explore the millions of videos posted; #hairtok has surpassed 65.3 billion views.

How many people want to improve their haircare routine?

If you want to up your haircare routine and give your locks the best chance of looking gorgeous for longer, the first thing to do is figure out your hair type and hair needs.

Your hairstylist will suggest getting regular haircuts every eight to twelve weeks and provide some advice on what your hair really needs. If your hair is dull and lifeless, it is important for you to understand what products to use and how to use them; the same as if your hair is thin and weak, your hairstylist should help you with answers to all your questions.
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Searches for ‘healthy hair mask’ have increased by 575% over the past month in the United Kingdom alone, proving the desperate urge to seek the healthiest products and treatment for improving routines.

Not only are nourishing hair masks gaining interest online, but searches for how to achieve heatless curls to avoid heat damage have also risen tremendously worldwide, with searches for ‘heatless curls’ increasing by 274% worldwide.
​
William Zeqiri, founder and CEO of Fresha, commented on the findings:
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